If you’ve ever worked with access control equipment, you know that rising bollards aren’t just pieces of metal—they’re the unsung guardians of property safety, perimeter security, and traffic flow for everything from retail parking lots and school campuses to government facilities and industrial warehouses. As a supplier who’s been working with these systems for over a decade, I’ve heard the same frustration from clients again and again: “We install these, they work perfectly during business hours, but we have no clue how to properly store them when we need to lower them for extended periods.” Poor storage doesn’t just shorten the life of your bollards—it leads to unexpected malfunctions, costly repairs, and even security gaps when you need them most. Today, I’m walking you through the science-backed, field-tested steps our team at [My Company Name] uses to help every client store their rising bollards correctly when they’re not in active use. Rising Bollards
First, let’s set a foundation to make this make sense, because you can’t store something properly if you don’t understand what makes it work. Most modern rising bollards are hydraulic (or electro-hydraulic) systems, meaning they rely on a mix of metal components, hydraulic fluid, seals, and internal electronics to extend and retract. When you lower a bollard for storage, you’re not just dropping it into its base—you’re leaving a sensitive, precision-engineered system in a static state. That’s where most mistakes happen: people treat bollards like traffic cones or temporary barriers, and they overlook the components that take the brunt of inactivity.
Before you even touch the bollard controls, there’s a critical pre-storage inspection step that takes 10 minutes but saves you months of headaches. Our team trains all our clients to do this every single time they’re preparing to store their bollards for more than 72 hours (that’s three full days, for context). Start with the exterior: wipe down the bollard barrel with a mild, pH-neutral detergent and a soft cloth—no pressure washers, I repeat, no pressure washers. High-pressure water can seep into small gaps around the barrel seal, corrode internal components, or damage wiring. Pay extra attention to the base plate, where the bollard meets the ground; that’s where dirt, gravel, and road grime build up, and if left there, they can scratch the barrel’s surface or jam the seal when you go to raise it again.
Next, test the operation of the bollard three times before storing it. Lower it slowly, wait 10 seconds at the fully retracted position, then raise it halfway, lower it again, then raise it fully. Why? This small test confirms that the hydraulic system isn’t holding air, that the seals aren’t leaking, and that the control panel is functioning correctly. If you notice a slight delay when lowering or a leak of hydraulic fluid, address that now before storing it—leaks only get worse when the system is stationary, and air in the lines can cause permanent damage to the pump over time.
Now, the most important part of storing rising bollards when not in use: the base and pit, the part most people ignore completely. The bollard’s pit isn’t just a hole in the ground—it’s a controlled environment that houses the hydraulic pump, control unit, motor, and power supply. If your pit has a drain, make sure it’s clear of debris. Standing water in the pit is the number one cause of premature corrosion and electrical damage. Even if your bollard is made of galvanized steel or stainless steel, prolonged exposure to pooled water will cause rust on internal components that you can’t see, and that rust will seize the bollard when you try to raise it again. If you live in an area with heavy rain or high humidity, our team recommends adding a pit dehumidifier for long-term storage—this small, low-maintenance device runs on minimal power and keeps moisture levels in the pit below 50%, the sweet spot for protecting electronics and metal components.
Once the bollard is retracted, the next step is securing the retracted position, but not just with the standard control fob. Wait a minute—yes, the fob will lower the bollard, but leaving it on only the control system leaves it vulnerable. If someone accidentally hits the “raise” button on a remote, or if there’s a power surge that triggers the control panel, the bollard will extend when it’s supposed to be stored, creating a tripping hazard or a security risk. Instead, use the manual lock that every quality rising bollard comes with. Most of our bollards have a small, heavy-duty metal lock that fits into a port on the side of the base plate—slide the lock into place, and it physically prevents the hydraulic rod from extending, even if the electrical system gets triggered. For clients storing their bollards for more than a month, we also recommend disconnecting the power supply to the pit. That means turning off the circuit breaker that feeds the bollard system and unplugging any external fobs or control panels. Disconnecting power stops power surges from damaging the electronics and eliminates the risk of accidental activation.
Now, let’s talk about the components that people forget to service during storage: the seals and hydraulic fluid. The seals around the bollard barrel are the only thing keeping water, dirt, and debris out of the internal hydraulic system. When the bollard is retracted, those seals are pressed tightly against the barrel’s exterior, creating a barrier—but if they’re left in the same compressed position for months, they can develop “set” or harden, which leads to leaks when you try to use the bollard again. The fix for this is simple: every 30 days (even if the bollard is stored long-term), you should run it through a full cycle. Lower it, wait 10 seconds, raise it fully, wait another 10 seconds, then lower it again. This small cycle loosens the seals, keeps them flexible, and distributes hydraulic fluid evenly throughout the lines, preventing clogs. We see clients who skip this step and come back after a six-month storage period to find their seals are cracked, their hydraulic lines are blocked, and their entire pump is broken—all because they thought leaving the bollard retracted was enough.
Hydraulic fluid itself is another critical point. Hydraulic fluid isn’t a “fill it and forget it” substance. When the system is stationary, contaminants like dust, moisture, and metal shavings can settle in the fluid. Over time, those contaminants can scratch the pump’s internal pistons, leading to reduced performance or complete failure. If you’re storing your bollard for more than three months, it’s a good idea to drain a small sample of the fluid every month and check it for cloudiness, which means moisture is present, or metallic flecks, which mean internal wear. Most standard hydraulic fluid for rising bollards should be replaced every two years, regardless of use, but stored systems that are run through a cycle monthly can extend that to three years. If you’re in a very cold climate, make sure you use the correct viscosity hydraulic fluid for your region—cold temperatures can thicken fluid, making it impossible to raise the bollard, while warm temperatures can thin it, leading to leaks.
Now, what about external storage accessories? For short-term storage (less than two weeks), you might be tempted to put a cover over the retracted bollard to keep dirt off. That’s a good idea, but not just any cover will work. You need a breathable, UV-resistant cover—regular plastic tarps trap moisture, which can cause rust on the barrel, and cheap fabric covers will tear in a matter of months. We offer custom-fitted breathable covers for our bollards, but if you’re using a third-party cover, make sure it has vent holes on the sides to prevent condensation buildup. Never wrap the base plate or control panel in plastic—those parts need to be accessible for inspections, and wrapping them can block airflow.
Let’s also address common mistakes I see all the time, because these are the ones that cost clients the most. First: storing a wet bollard. I can’t tell you how many times a client will wash their bollard, lower it into the pit, and close up the site, only to find rust spots on the barrel a week later. Always let the bollard dry completely for 24 hours before retracting it—even a thin layer of water can lead to rust, especially on galvanized steel in coastal areas where salt air is present. Second: over-tightening the base bolts. When the bollard is lowered, people often crank down the base bolts to make it extra secure, but that can put unnecessary stress on the pit’s foundation and the hydraulic system. Follow the manufacturer’s torque specifications, which are in the operation manual—for our bollards, that’s 40 foot-pounds, which is enough to keep it stable without damaging components. Third: storing bollards near other heavy equipment. If your site has construction equipment, shipping containers, or even large trash bins, don’t store your retracted bollard within 10 feet of them. Even a minor collision with a forklift or a wind-blown container can bend the bollard barrel or crack the base, making it useless when you need it.
For long-term storage, which we define as anything over six months, there are a few additional steps to take. First, mark the location of the pit clearly. It’s easy for grass to grow over the pit cover, or for construction debris to get piled on top, so we recommend painting the area around the pit with bright yellow or white spray paint, or installing a small, visible marker post nearby. Second, perform a full system service before storing for the long term. That means replacing the hydraulic fluid, lubricating all moving parts (the barrel’s guide rails, the hinge on the base plate, the lock mechanism), and testing all electronic components. A little investment before storage will mean you don’t have to pay for emergency repairs when you need the bollard back in service.
Now, let’s talk about the science behind why this all works, because I want you to understand that this isn’t just a list of rules—it’s based on material science and mechanical engineering. Stainless steel and galvanized steel don’t rust instantly; corrosion starts when moisture is trapped against the metal, creating an electrochemical reaction. Seals develop set because rubber and polyurethane materials degrade when held in a single position for extended periods, a process called creep. Hydraulic fluid clogs because contaminants settle when the system isn’t circulating, a basic principle of fluid dynamics. All of these are predictable problems, and they’re all preventable with the steps I’ve outlined.
At [My Company Name], we’ve tested these storage procedures over thousands of installations across 20 different countries, from coastal Florida to the mountainous plains of Canada. We had a client in Alberta who stored their bollards for eight months during a road construction project, and when they followed our storage guidelines, their bollards worked perfectly when the project was done. Another client in Texas, who skipped the dehumidifier and power disconnect, had to replace three hydraulic pumps after six months of storage due to moisture damage—costing them 10 times what a dehumidifier would have cost.
If you’re working with rising bollards, whether you’re a site manager, a contractor, or another equipment supplier, the key takeaway is that proper storage isn’t an afterthought—it’s an essential part of maintaining your bollard’s performance and lifespan. A well-stored rising bollard can last 15 to 20 years, while a poorly stored one might need major repairs or replacement after just 5 years.
If you have questions about storage procedures for your specific model of rising bollard, or if you need help sourcing quality bollards for your site, our team is here to help. Reach out to us to discuss your access control needs, and we can provide tailored guidance on everything from storage to installation and maintenance.
Access Control References
- American National Standards Institute (ANSI). (2020). Standard for Vehicle Security Bollards. ANSI/SAIA A117.1-2020.
- Hydraulic Institute. (2019). Guidelines for Hydraulic System Maintenance and Storage. Hydraulic Practices Publication HP 2.6.
- International Organization for Standardization (ISO). (2018). Corrosion Protection of Steel Structures for Infrastructure. ISO 12944-5:2018.
- National Fire Protection Association (NFPA). (2021). Standard for Access Control Systems for Fire and Life Safety. NFPA 80:2021.
- Rubber Manufacturers Association. (2020). Guidelines for Rubber Seal Maintenance and Degradation in Industrial Equipment. RMA Publication No. EK-10.
Shenzhen Pvizeye Technology Co., Ltd.
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